La Paz

La Paz is not the capital of Bolivia, Sucre takes that title, but they still have a lot of official buildings and a lot of important stuff still goes down there. This means that La Paz is usually the site of many protests and other annoyances. 

The first thing we did in La Paz was the Red Cap walking tour (which we would later find to be quite popular with other travelers during the rest of our stint in Bolivia). This was one of the better walking tours that we've done. It used to be free and they would ask for a tip at the end (like in every other country) but this caused outrage amongst the other tour operators who started to attack the tour guides and their clients. This lead to them having to shut down for a period of time. The new tour now costs 20 BOB, which you are free to pay at the end along with a tip. So it's pretty much exactly the same. 

The walking tour started in San Pedro Square, just outside the infamous San Pedro Prison. I didn't know this prison existed before this tour but it is mental. The prison basically works like a little city, everyone has to pay their way. You have to pay for your cell and your food. If you don't have money you don't have anywhere to sleep, if you do have money you can own your own apartment with  wifi (from the hotel in the top right of the picture), TV, kitchen and private bathroom. Prisoners families are also allowed to come and go as they please and many actually live inside the prison. There used to be tours inside the prison and you could even spend a night, but the authorities have cracked down on that now. However some people still try to sell you tours inside which could end up in you being deported and black listed. If you want to learn more about the prison you could read Marching Powder (I met a few people in Bolivia who were also reading Marching Powder at the time), an account of a British Citizen's experiences in San Pedro after he was busted trafficking cocaine out of Bolivia.

The prison is in the background of this photo, la policia don't like you taking photos.

An escape attempt at the back of the prison 

We had a wander through the Witches Market - complete with llama fetuses. It's tradition to bury a llama fetus under any new construction. There are also rumours of using actual people when you want to build something big, like a mansion, and gringos are worth more. 

Just wow

Mother Earth giving birth to a flower - this is on one of the main churches in town

We visited many local markets on the tour and Alex got to try his Api - a sweet, warm, corn drink. It would be amazing in the mornings. 

After the tour we decided to have a go at the teleferico (cable cars). These are pretty new in town and there are currently only 3 lines (there are plans to add another 6). These are such a great way to get around the city. Alex asked someone how much time they have saved on their commute since the teleferico opened - the answer was about an hour!

Views from the teleferico - La Paz is such a funny city. It's a mass of brick buildings filling up a valley. 

Because it's public transport it's also really cheap - like $1 for one way.

You get to see some interesting things from the teleferico

Our second day in town we went back to the market for amazing giant fresh smoothies. Why does Australia not have these?

During our tour we also learnt about the zebras. It's a program where enthusiastic teenagers dress up as zebras and help people cross the road. They have a big influence on teaching kids road safety and have been very successful. We were excited when we finally ran into one and they were more than happy to pose for a photo.

The next challenge - Urban Rush. I'm not the most confident person on a bike (I fell off my bike in The Netherlands - it's flat!) so we thought we should probably skip The World's Most Dangerous Road. Instead, for our adrenaline kick we decided to repel down a building - face first!

The big green building is the monster we "walked" out of 

You got to pick a super hero to dress up as - obviously Alex chose hotdog

I was bricking it big time! It's right up there with the Tarzan Swing of scary shit I've done, it maybe ranks higher. 

To give you a better idea of what actually went down enjoy his video from Alex's perspective. Just watching the video makes me still feel a little queasy. Wait until the free fall at the end!

After our Urban Rush experience we went to an English pub to have a drink before dinner. Just to fill in the time. Turns out it was the Queen's Birthday and celebrations were under way. We had the pleasure of meeting the Deputy Ambassador for the British Embassy and many other interesting characters. This accidentally turned into quite a night and the next day served as a reminder of why I don't drink that much.

Alex and the Ambassador

One of the squares close by our hostel was steeped in history.

Notice anything about the clock? It's backwards to mark a new time in Bolivia. There is talk about making all other official clocks like this. It is a mark of respect to how ancient people read the time from sun dials.

Bolivian Coat of Arms - I just think it's really cool

This square also has a big pigeon problem. Why people insist on covering themselves in seeds and letting pigeons feed off them I'll never know. At least the children enjoy it though. 

In 2003 there was a shoot out between the army and the police/everyone. Taxes had been raised for everyone except the army, resulting in a bloody mess. This one building was left as it was to serve as a reminder of what happened. Yep, those are real bullet holes. 

There is also a monument of an ex president who was thrown out of the window of his home (also on this square). When that didn't kill the guy he was hung on the very lamp post that stands behind him now. 

"I am not an enemy of the rich but I am more a friend of the poor. I look for the liberation of proletariat. It is our flag, and for that flag I will fall, I am ready to die."