Isla de Ometepe

Isla de Ometepe is a pretty unique island made up of twin Volcanoes sitting in the middle of the largest lake in Central America, Lake Nicaragua, and was the final stop on our tour through Nicaragua.

To get here from the Surfing turtle was a bit of a mission. I honestly didn't think we were going to make it onto the Island within one day but we did it after 9 different modes of transport! It went something like this:

Horse and carriage to get off Surfing Turtle Island > Boat to the mainland > Chicken Bus to Leon > Chicken Bus to the Bus Terminal > Shuttle to Managua > Taxi to Bus Terminal > Chicken Bus to San Jorge > Ferry to Moyogapla, Ometepe > Chicken Bus to Merida

The view we had as we approached the Island on a pretty rough Ferry

 We ended up in Merida on the Southern half of the Island because that was the end of the line on the bus and it was dark so we couldn't actually tell if there was actually anywhere to stay out there.

Day 1 on Ometepe was spent hiking for about 2 hours or more to see a waterfall. The signs say it's only 3 km but it is definitely not 3 km, as everyone exclaims as they finally catch sight of the waterfall. We spend some time being refreshed in it's cool waters before heading back down the train for some well deserved lunch.

I had just made it to the waterfall and I was feeling pretty annoyed about the signs lying to me

Alex on the other hand was straight in there enjoying the rainbow

Island Life

On Day Two we decided to cycle around the southern half of the Island, definitely a good choice after a hike the previous day.  It turned out to be a 35km ride and took us about 6 hours (most people said it takes about 4). The roads in the middle start to get pretty bad, just lots of loose rocks that even the local buses refuse to take. I had lots of moments where I was pretty sure I was going to die of hunger because I couldn't bike back to civilization but it was worth it for the good moments. Like high fiving local kids as you ride past, getting momentum from a good down hill run, seeing all the pigs the inhabit the island and the views of the volcanoes.

Me taking a much needed rest - I don't know why I keep getting myself into these things

Volcan Concepcion

Day 3 we moved on to Playa Santo Domingo to a small taste of the beach and have a deserved day of relaxation. The day of relaxation included getting up early for a crowded Chicken Bus (that actually had some literal chickens on it!), finding a smelly room to sleep in that night, taking an easy 3km stroll to Ojo de Agua (some developed springs), easy 3km stroll back, stroll up the beach, food, destroy a giant cockroach who was trying to be the 3rd roommate and sleep. 

"Relaxing" in the cool springs

Local Wildlife - White-throated Magpie-Jay

For this week's Political Column a big thanks goes to guest writer Alex!

On Christmas Eve we stumbled upon an article about a possible new canal in Nicaragua which would dwarf Panama canal. At the time it sounded like a 'possibility' although it's starting to sound like the process is running at full steam. The shipping route will pass the southern side of Ometepe (where we spent most of our time) and will likely remove much of the natural attractions that make it a tourist magnet. 

The development is highly controversial as it could well be a wrecking ball to the local wildlife yet it provides hope to many in what is the second poorest country in the western hemisphere. On top of this, it's being run by a Chinese company who are shrouded in mystery and who officially have no connection with the Chinese government (which is considered highly unlikely by some). For one more layer of controversy, the last time a foreign company was allowed special privileges in Lake Nicaragua, a Japanese company wiped out the lake's bull sharks whilst making fin soup.

We only had the chance to speak to one local regarding the developments. Our previously happy tour guide took on a serious demeanor and said he was 'ready to fight' to save the Lake. He did acknowledge he may be biased due to his means of living relying on the waters. At the same time, there is substantial weight behind the fears of many Nicaraguans.

If you're interested, here is a link to one of many informed articles The Guardian has published on the matter.